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http://www.monmouth.com/~dschutz/overhang.htm
Thoughts on "Boot Overhang"
by: Michael MagyarI haven't seen anywhere on the web where boot length is compared with board width and binding thickness. So here is my take on it.
- On an end view of the board, look at the angle made by the tip of the
boot (clicked-in or strapped in) and the metal edge of the board. This
*must* be 60 degrees or more to prevent toe drag. Same requirement applies to the heel of the boots.
- Riders with large feet should NOT go "baseless" because this worsens the
angle, and therefore the overhang problem. Binding plate thickness is a
large footed rider's ally.
- Riders with big feet (> size 9) should make sure any overhangs are equal
on front and back of foot. Adjust binding location to achieve this. Make
sure any rental boards have this done. Rental shops-- especially at ski
areas--tend to overlook this requirement, unless you point it out to them.
My first rental, before I knew better, had me with *no* overhang on my
heel, and a huge overhang on my toe side. I had a 240mm board with 310mm
boots, making my toe overhang 50 mm! I'll bet it was a 30 degree angle at
best--a disaster waiting to happen.
- Don't buy (or rent) a boot any larger than necessary. If your toe
touches inside, that's ok. Just make sure it doesn't touch by much.
Often, boots will grow with age. And be *sure* your heel is fully seated
in the boot. New boots are often sufficiently padded to require more than
a casual *insert foot* to get the heel all they way planted in the boot.
- General rule of thumb on boot sizes and board widths (assuming standard
binding plate thickness):
* typical side cuts make this value about 5 mm more than the board's waist widthBoot Size versus Board Width Boot Size (U.S.) Boot Length Board Width at Boot * 9 290 mm 235 mm 10 300 mm 245 mm 11 310 mm 255 mm 12 320 mm 265 mm 13 330 mm 275 mm - Look for a binding that does not "extend" the length of your boot at the
heel. All "step-in" bindings that I have seen qualify here. Traditional
strap-in bindings, especially plastic or composite ones, add 5 mm or more
to the heel dimension. AND the taper of the heel cup probably doesn't
match your boot exactly either, making things worse.
- If you can't meet the 60 degree requirement with your boot at 0 degrees
(perpendicular to the board axis), you will either have to angle both your
feet 30 degrees forward or more, or buy a new (wider) board. The first
choice has obvious limitations: 1) you won't be able to ride backwards
effectively, and 2) you ability to edge will be complicated because your
toe-side pressure points will be forward of your heel-side pressure points.
Asymmetrical boards tried to deal with this, and they "died" in the
marketplace.
Copyright © 1993 - 2001 David E. Schutz
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